The eyes are central to communicating how we feel. It’s an area that is very delicate, and changes in the skin and underlying structures around the eyes can have a profound effect on how we see ourselves and how others see us. When you look or feel sad, tired or mad, it’s usually the eyes that show it first: signs of joy, love and even wisdom, but also the telltale signs of a tough day or a tough year. The good news is there’s so much that can be done to help your eyes look their best at every age!

The Physical Structure of the Eye

To understand eye aging, we must first understand its physical components. Deep under the skin is a framework of bone and a socket or hole surrounded by muscles, ligaments, fat pads, lymphatics, nerves and blood vessels that hold everything together under and to the skin. Each layer and element is very important in helping you see, blink, and protect your eyes and vision from harm. They are also critical to how you look and how we rejuvenate the area using aesthetic treatments. What we now know is that these elements don’t age in a synchronous way which over time can lead to hollows, under eye bags and crepey skin. The aesthetic physician must carefully investigate the source of each issue before treating, and it is important to understand it often takes a combination of skin care, devices and sometimes injectables for optimal, natural and lasting results.

The skin around your eyes is the thinnest skin on your body and is very delicate, so it needs to be treated with extra care. Rubbing or using a heavy hand when you touch the area, even when applying products, can cause irritation leading to redness and puffiness, and can worsen dark circles. 

Common Complaints

The most common complaints I hear about the eyes are dark circles, under eye hollows or bags, crêpey skin, and of course, wrinkles. It’s a long list for such a small area of the body: it certainly speaks to the power of the eyes in beauty! So where do we begin? Let’s discuss each concern step-by-step.

Dark Circles 101

They’re the most obvious signs of lack of sleep, one too many cocktails and stress: those hazy, brownish-bluish-purplish clouds underneath your eyes can be hard to conceal and are among the most common concerns my younger patients have. What gives the skin under your eyes its color is a combination of blood vessels, pigment in the skin, and the thickness of the skin along with fluid that can accumulate in this delicate, sensitive area.

Not enough sleep. Solution: sleep more. Try listening to ocean sounds at bedtime, taking deep breaths and allowing yourself to let go. We all go through difficult times where we can’t sleep, but it’s not sustainable to not get enough sleep over a long period of time. Cat naps can help too.

Not enough water. Solution: drink more water. You can also eat your water since many fruits and vegetables contain up to 90% water and thankfully that counts towards your needed daily intake.

Too much alcohol: this leads to both dark circles and puffiness. Try drinking less and see how magical it is for your eyes. You’ll also lose a few pounds and feel better. All around a win-win situation!

Allergies: dark circles are often a combination of pigment making the skin darker and redness from dilated blood vessels. Allergies cause increased redness through the latter effect and rubbing will lead to darkening through increased pigment from the irritation. Solution? Try to stay ahead of allergies. If you know when they start, try taking allergy medicine a week or so before they start or speak with your allergist about how to avoid falling behind and having symptoms that are difficult to control.

Rubbing: Every day I see women aggressively touching and rubbing their eyes.  It’s one of the worst things you can do to the delicate skin in this sensitive area. Just don’t do it. Try gently patting on a moisturizer instead.

Genetics: Sometimes this is the cause and while you can’t control your genes, you can take great care of your genetics. This means don’t rub your eyes, wear sunscreen and sunglasses and use excellent products that will keep the eye area as healthy as possible. I really like eye creams that have ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, growth factors, peptides, caffeine and retinol.

Tackling Undereye Bags & Hollows

Undereye hollowing is a broad category and includes everything from genetics,  where it’s the shape of the eyes and the structures around it that creates a natural hollow, to dark circles that look like a hollow without any actual loss of volume in the area, to redness that can also create a shadow-like effect. 

Another issue in this area is puffiness. Puffiness can have several causes and one is fat pad herniation which is usually a genetic problem. A quick test I use in the office is to press on the upper eyelid. If I see a bulge in the lower lid, then I know it’s a fat pad issue. If I don’t see a change it’s more likely to be fluid and in that case it helps to control salt intake and drinking more water helps a lot too. 

One technique I use to fix undereye bags due to fat pad herniation in-office is to use a cannula (soft needle) to disrupt that ligament and then place very small amounts of hyaluronic acid filler to blend the area. This is an area for advanced injectors and an area that needs extra-careful consideration to avoid complications!

Crepey Skin & Wrinkles

When I observe my makeup artist, I see how she spends so much time on the eyes, making them “pop.” It makes perfect sense. Having big beautiful eyes, of any eye color and smooth even skin tone around the eyes is a sign of youth, calm and confidence.

The best treatments for improving the skin are (again) eye creams that have ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, growth factors, peptides, caffeine and retinol. In office treatment options are neuromodulators like Botox, Dysport or Xeomin for gently smoothing the lines and preventing them from getting worse, fractional laser can rejuvenate the skin, fillers discretely places around the eyes, under the brows, the temples and lower eyelids and finally, devices that use radiofrequency or ultrasound energy to tighten and lift the skin and address the skin’s deeper layers. 

My Tips for Ageless Eyes  

1. Use a gentle cleanser. It is very important to remove all makeup before bed, but it’s equally important to avoid using harsh cleansers or scrub too vigorously, as this can irritate the skin and lead to increased water loss from the skin, leading to dryness, redness and blotchiness. Instead, use a gentle cleanser along with warm, not hot water, to remove makeup and dirt without stripping the skin of its natural oils, taking care not to pull or tug on the skin. When you’re done, pat your skin dry with a soft towel.
2. Apply skincare specifically designed and tested for the eye area. Choose a gentle retinoid eye product to smooth out and firm delicate skin, and to brighten dark circles, and a peptide eye cream that will hydrate and nourish the delicate skin around your eyes. Apply them morning and night to keep the skin around your eyes looking smooth and healthy. To apply, use the finger pad of your third finger to gently pat the cream in, instead of rubbing it in with your index finger. The goal is to avoid rubbing, irritating or stretching the skin.
3. Protect your skin from the sun. The skin around your eyes is especially susceptible to damage from the sun. Wear sunglasses when you are outdoors and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to the area around your eyes before you go outside. Be sure to reapply the sunscreen every 2-3 hours, or more often if you’re swimming or sweating.
4. See your dermatologist for specific treatments designed just for you, to help your eyes age beautifully so they can be a true mirror of your soul, and your health!

Bottom Line: The skin around your eyes is delicate and can age faster than the rest of your face, so it needs special attention and care. Make sure to have a light touch and to use products specifically designed for it so it can stay firm, radiant and beautiful as you age.