As a dermatologist, you can believe I’ve heard all the spooky myths and old wives' tales that haunt the beauty aisles. But when it comes to your skin health, misinformation can be truly frightening. That’s why today I'm here to help you separate fact from fiction. Let’s shine a light on the truth and dispel some pervasive skin and hair care myths that continue to circulate.

Myth #1: Sunscreen is bad for you.

Let’s start with the scariest myth of all - that sunscreen is bad for you. I get it, the ingredient lists on sunscreen bottles can be long and intimidating, filled with complex chemical names that are hard to pronounce. This can lead people to believe that these ingredients are inherently harmful or toxic, even though they have been rigorously tested and deemed safe for use. Some claim that these chemicals are hormone disruptors or can even cause cancer, despite a lack of scientific evidence to support these claims. Ultimately, the risk of skin cancer from sun exposure far outweighs any potential risks associated with sunscreen use. However, if you are concerned about chemical absorption, I recommend opting for a mineral based (physical) sunscreen. 

Myth #2: "All-natural" skincare is always superior.

That brings me to my next favorite myth. The term "natural" is often used loosely in the skincare industry. While many natural ingredients offer valuable benefits, it's crucial to remember that "natural" doesn't automatically equate to "safe" or "effective." Always research ingredients, perform a patch test before applying new products to your face, and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

Myth #3: People with sensitive skin should avoid retinol.

It's not entirely true that people with sensitive skin should avoid retinol altogether. While retinol can be irritating, especially at higher concentrations, there are ways to incorporate it into a sensitive skincare routine safely and effectively. If you have rosacea or eczema, always consult with your dermatologist before beginning a retinol regimen. 

How to Use Retinol with Sensitive Skin:

• Start Low and Go Slow: To minimize “retinization” (your skin’s adjustment period to retinol), begin with a low concentration of retinol (0.01% or 0.03%) and apply it only once or twice a week. Gradually increase the frequency and concentration as your skin tolerates it.  
• Sandwich Technique: Apply a buffer layer of moisturizer, then retinol, then another layer of moisturizer to "sandwich" the retinol and further minimize irritation.  
• Hydration is Key: Keep your skin well-hydrated by using a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer both morning and night.
• Avoid Other Actives at First: Limit the use of other potentially irritating ingredients like AHAs/BHAs or vitamin C while your skin adjusts to retinol.
• Sun Sensitivity: Retinol can increase sun sensitivity, so always wear sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher during the day.
• Patch Test: Before applying retinol to your entire face, do a patch test on a small area of skin to assess your tolerance.  

A Word on OTC  Retinoids:

Over the counter retinoid products are often much better tolerated by those with sensitive skin rather than prescription strength options, and you may even see better results. Strict FDA regulations make it difficult to formulate a prescription strength product with other supporting active ingredients like hyaluronic acid or antioxidants - which can boost the product’s overall effectiveness without adding more irritation. 

Myth #4: Popping pimples speeds up healing.

This is a dangerous misconception. Squeezing or picking at blemishes can introduce bacteria deep into the skin, potentially worsening inflammation and increasing the likelihood of scarring. Instead, try using a medicated cleanser and then treat active breakouts with targeted topical treatments containing ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Do not use rubbing alcohol, which can irritate and dry out your skin while having zero effect on the bacteria, c. acnes, that causes acne. 

Myth #5: If my mom has thinning hair, so will I.

There are countless myths about what causes hair loss, from genetics to gender to how often you wear hats or even how frequently you wash your hair.  The truth is, hair loss can be caused by many factors, including stress, hormonal changes, nutritional deficiencies, and illness. Luckily, there’s a lot we can do to maintain a healthy head of hair for years to come. Aside from a healthy diet and lifestyle, taking care of your scalp is crucial in supporting a healthy environment for hair to thrive. I recommend using a gentle shampoo and a scalp serum to support the scalp’s natural microcirculation to create ideal conditions for new hair growth. In severe cases, a dermatologist can help determine if medications like minoxidil and finasteride are the best course of action based on the cause and type of hair loss. 

Read more about The Science of Hair Care and The Root Cause of Hair Loss.

The Bottom Line:

This Halloween, and every day, I encourage you to prioritize your skin's health by seeking factual information and adopting a science-backed, evidence-based approach to skincare. Don't let misleading myths dictate your routine.